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How To Choose A Men's Suit

Choosing a men's suit? Your first job when buying a new suit is to select a cut that flatters your shape. Once you've got that sorted, you need to think about colour, fit and fabric.

Whether you're buying your first suit or you're a stylish gent who prefers the suited and booted look, here's everything you need to make the best choice.

Why The Cut Of Your Suit Matters

Suits differ in the way they're “cut” - their basic shape, as well as some styling details - like the number of buttons and vents on the jacket. There are three basic cuts from which to choose, and each suits a particular body shape.

British cut:

Here in the UK, our suits are a civilian form of a military uniform. The British-cut suit jacket has structured shoulders and a slightly nipped in waist. It usually features two buttons at the front, four button surgeons' cuffs, flap pockets and notched lapels. Turn around and you'll find double vents, which originally helped the jacket drape well when worn on horseback.

A British cut suit is the most versatile in that it suits most men. It looks particularly good on average to athletic guys, helping to accentuate the line of your shoulders, while minimising your waist.

American cut:

Also called a “sack” cut, American suits were designed for ease of manufacture on the new production lines which Henry Ford made famous. What you get with an American suit is unstructured shoulders, a rectangular body, three buttons up the front, a variety of cuff styles and a single vent.

What sounds like a rather shapeless garment is actually a very good choice for big guys, and if, like some sportsmen, you're very bulky in the shoulders and thighs, this style works well for you.

Italian cut:

A great cut for slim guys, the Italian suit is sharp and stylish with boxy shoulders - perfect for those who need a little extra shape in that department. This suit is cinched at the waist and with no vent, cuts a very sharp silhouette.

Italian suits tend to be slim fitting - this is a very flattering style for young guys with good figures, but somewhat unforgiving as you age. Another downside of Italian suits is that though they can be cut from wonderful original fabrics, their edgy styling sometimes makes them too contemporary for the rarified atmosphere of the office, or other formal use.

How To Choose A Men's Suit

Find the perfect fit to stand out in your suitImage source: Samuel Windsor

Why The Cut Of Your Suit Matters

Choose a cut that complements your physical typeImage source: Samuel Windsor

Samuel Windsor Suits

A Samuel Windsor suit is tailored to the highest standards and features a robust, British cut and a standard of finish that's unparalleled in this price bracket. Our men's suits are classically cut from 100% pure new wool, guaranteeing a great look and excellent durability.

Our high quality single-breasted jackets feature traditional half-canvas construction, a tailoring technique which provides greater stability in the chest area of the jacket down to the pocket. This helps the fabric resist wrinkling and adds weight so that it drapes nicely.

Properly padded and prick-stitched lapels keep your suit looking great for longer and with four-button working cuffs, high-notch lapels, double vents, two covered waist pockets and a two-button front fastening, you know you're getting a quality suit jacket with timeless appeal.

Looking for a lightweight suit for warmer weather? Try our 100% linen suits. Our linen jackets feature the same quality, half canvas construction as our wool suits, and offer a comfortable classic fit with notch lapel, two buttons and double vents.

Samuel Windsor Suits

Wool suits from Samuel Windsor are tailored to exacting quality standardsImage source: Samuel Windsor

Getting A Good Fit

Buying a suit that fits you properly begins with getting your measurements right. Your suit trousers should be loose enough around the waist to sit comfortably without sagging when you stand. You need enough room in the thigh and crotch to move comfortably, and do choose your trouser length with care - we recommend a half break which sees your trouser hem crease slightly where it contacts the top of your shoe, but stop short of a full fold.

Check your suit jacket for fit. You want the fabric to lie flat across the top of your back, and for the shoulder seam to sit at the exact point that your shoulder meets your arm. With your arms relaxed by your sides, your jacket sleeves should reach the large bone of your wrist, leaving a half inch or so of shirt cuff visible.

Standing straight, with your arms relaxed by your sides and the top button done up, the bottom hem of your jacket should be in line with your knuckles. If doing up your top button makes your suit pucker, it's too tight, if it hangs forward, it's too loose.

Getting A Good Fit

Measure twice, cut onceImage source: Samuel Windsor

How To Choose The Best Colour Suit

What's the occasion? If you're shopping for a suit for office wear and other formal occasions, charcoal, navy, subtle checks, and pinstripes are the way to go. For celebratory events, introduce bolder colours, textures and patterns. Summer offers the opportunity to shop for even lighter colours - airforce blue, tan and light grey all look great in warm weather.

As a rule, navy tends to accentuate youth, while charcoal adds a certain gravitas. For in depth info on how to choose the best colour for your complexion, check out our guide to choosing the right colour suit.

How To Choose The Best Colour Suit

Navy blue is the most versatile colourImage source: Samuel Windsor

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